Monday, May 5, 2014

Ethnic Centaurée dress

Size: 40 (42 for the skirt)
Alterations: 3cm small back adjustment.
Fabric: a beautiful cotton lawn with an ethic print, purchased locally. Blue polycotton from Minerva Crafts. 

If you guys didn't notice the release of Deer and Doe's latest pattern, the Centaurée dress, you're missing out!
As usual, I was lucky enough to be included in the testing process of this pattern, and, again as usual, it was a delight.
The Centaurée dress was created by Eléonore almost on a whim (as she explains here), the design came together very quickly, and I fell in love with it design immediately.

First of all, I was over the moon about a new Deer and Doe dress, because it's the type of garment I wear most often and enjoy sewing the most. Furthermore, the dress options by Deer and Doe rank between my favorite patterns ever (Bleuet in primis, then Belladone and Sureau).
And once again, I wasn't disappointed!

Starting with the fit: as I mentioned countless times, I'm lucky enough to have exactly the type of body these patterns are designed for, so not only they flatter me, I also need to make very little alterations.
For Centaurée, I cut a size 40 and made a small back alterations, removing 3 cm from the back bodice. Actually that's what I did for my muslin, but when I cut my fabric I found it to be a little small, so I had to let out the side seam by exactly 3 cm total... I think it might be because some of the pieces of the bodice weren't cut correctly on grain (I didn't have enough fabric), but I'm not sure. I'll need to look out for that in my next version.

Centaurée is rated as intermediate, but an advanced beginner can tackle it as well. The only difficult aspects of this pattern are fitting the bodice correctly (please, please, PLEASE make a muslin) and sewing the bias tape precisely. The rest is actually really fun and quick to assemble. If the illustrated instructions are not enough for you, or this pattern still scares you a bit, there's a sewalong coming your way very soon! Yay!

I'm really in love with this dress and I want to sew many more, playing with just a print or a completely solid fabric (that's probably enough color blocking for me for a while) and with the strap placement... Maybe a maxy version too?


Taglia: 40 (42 per la gonna)
Modifiche: ridotto il corpino dietro di 3 cm.

Tessuto: Un bellissimo cotone con stampa etnica, acquistato localmente. Misto cotone blu di Minerva Crafts.

Avete visto che oggi è uscito il nuovo modello Deer and Doe? Si tratta dell'abito Centaurée.
Come al solito ho avuto la fortuna di essere una delle tester per questo modello, e come al solito, è stato un processo molto divertente. L'abito Centaurée è stato creato da Eléonore quasi di getto (come spiega qui), è stato realizzato molto velocemente, e io me ne sono innamorata subito.

Innanzitutto ero felicissima che si trattasse di un abito, il tipo di indumento che indosso di più e che mi diverte maggiormente cucire. Inoltre, gli abiti Deer and Doe sono tra i miei modelli preferiti di sempre (Bleuet in primis, poi Belladone e Sureau).
E ancora una volta, non sono stata delusa!

A cominciare dalla vestibilità: come ho già detto un sacco di volte, ho la fortuna di avere il tipo di corporatura per cui questi modelli vengono pensati, perciò non solo mi donano, ma richiedono anche pochissime modifiche. Per Centaurée, ho tagliato una 40 e ho fatto una modifica per la schiena piccola, rimuovendo 3 cm dal centro del corpino dietro. In realtà è quello che ho fatto per la telina, ma dopo aver montato l'abito vero e proprio era un po' troppo stretto; ho allargato le cuciture laterali per un totale di 3 cm... Non so bene perchè sia successa questa cosa, se sia dovuta al fatto che alcuni pezzi del corpino non sono stati tagliati in drittofilo perchè mi mancava la stoffa... Dovrò starci attenta per la mia prossima versione!

Centaurée è classificato a livello intermedio, ma anche una principiante avanzata ce la può fare. Le parti difficili sono ottenere una vestibilità corretta (PER FAVORE fate una telina prima di tagliare il tessuto!) e cucire lo sbieco con precisione. Il resto è divertente e veloce da cucire.
Se le istruzioni illustrate non sono abbastanza o se questo modello vi spaventa ancora un po', c'è un sewalong in arrivo prestissimo! Evviva!

Sono davvero innamorata di quest'abito e voglio cucirne molti altre versioni, probabilmente a tinta unita o completamente stampati (basta color blocking per ora!) e giocando un po' con le bretelline... Magari anche una versione con gonna lunga?

31 comments:

  1. That's so cute! I love what you did with the color blocking, I think I'm going to have to try something similar when when I get the pattern for myself.

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  2. Love it! It's the perfect everyday summer dress :)
    Are you shoes Swedish Hasbeens?

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  3. This is really cute! I like how you color blocked it.

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  4. so so so cute. I may have to tackle grading this pattern up, I love it so much!

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  5. i love this and bought my pattern today, beautiful version x

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  6. I'm wondering what this dress might look like with the bottom triangles incorporated into the gathered skirt...? could be a super cute babydoll or maybe a maternity dress. Maybe I will try (after I get through my current backlog of projects that is)!

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  7. Wow. Anna, this dress is absolutely breathtaking. The bodice is so interestingly pieced and works beautifully in two separate fabrics. Gorgeous!

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  8. I'm definitely buying this pattern as soon as I can. it's gorgeous, and I love your version!

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  9. Your version is amazing! Perfect colour blocking. This dress makes me shattered it's going into winter here.

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  10. Beautiful! The bodice is really special.

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  11. it's totally gorgeous! Your fabric choices and placement really bring out the bodice design.

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  12. Ooh, this IS cute! I wasn't overly excited when I saw the Deer & Doe post, but I guess that's the beauty of our blogs- being able to see other peoples' interpretations & all of the possibilities. Your fabric choices work perfectly too :)

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  13. Georgeous Fabric !
    I really love the colours ! Great job Anna, as usual :D

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  14. It's just a wonderfull dress and a wonderfull Fabric! Your Centauree Dress ist beautiful.

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  15. SUCH a cute dress. I love that you made it with contrasting panels. I have to admit I wasn't in love with the pattern when I first saw it, but now that I have seen the versions with the contrasts I really love it. And the way the straps are made is just so clever!

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  16. This dress is so cute ! And your fabric is the perfect one !
    Great Job !!!

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  17. Looks very flattering on you! A longer version would also look great.

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  18. This is so cute on you! I LOVE the fabric you used!

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  19. I am in awe of your version!! so perfect!! I love this pattern!

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  20. These are not patterns you stupid cunt! They are just the basic designs. You cant make anything from these or your the ones on your Flickr. Flick off!

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  21. A maxi version would be awesome!

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  22. Ciao Anna...innanzitutto complimenti per i tuoi lavori: sono veramente bellissimi!! A proposito di questo modello però ti volevo chiedere dove trovare il cartamodello...ho provato a spulciare un po' i link ma non mi raccapezzo più!!! Mi dai una mano?

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  23. LOVE your version! I have to get my hands on this pattern!

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  24. I think that mod would take a little bit of work, because you don't want the skirt in a triangle shape at the centre front... Maybe shortening both the centre and bottom bodice panels?

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  25. Nope, they're Lotta from Stockholm. It's great, more affordable alternative! :D
    i really like them, but they are quite noisy, which can be annoying in indoors spaces.

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  26. Ciao Erika,

    grazie mille!
    Mi ero proprio dimenticata di mettere un link diretto al cartamodello, perciò eccolo qui: http://sensibility.com/blog/patterns/1940s-swing-dress-pattern/
    In bocca al lupo con la creazione! :D

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  27. wow, this dress is amazing. I don't usually go gaga over sundresses, but I love the color blocking.

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  28. This is my favourite dress of yours you've made. I like the panels with the block colour. The fabric looks like Liberty tana lawn and has a lovely print.

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  29. Your photos are so beautiful and I love this version. You've inspired me to get this pattern- I ordered it from my local sewing shop, Sew L.A. and they just got it in this weekend! Thanks!!

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