Friday, November 23, 2012

Sureau Sew-along: Attaching the Sleeves

Let's start by seeing what you need to do after installing the zipper and before attaching the sleeves:

✄ Stitch front and back facing together at shoulder seam;
✄ Finish the outer edge of the facing;
✄ Stitch front and back bodice at shoulder seam;
✄ Pin facing to neckline and stitch; notch the seam allowance and topstitch;
✄ Baste facing to the armhole;
✄ Sew the long seam of your sleeves and finish the seam allowance.

If you need help with any of these steps, leave a comment below.
All set? Now we can attach our sleeves.

Start by stitching two rows of gathering between the marks on the sleeve caps (the marks, not the notches). I used tailor tacks for my marks, so I'm sorry they're not very visible in this photo, but they're there.

Now pin the sleeve to the armhole. I always start with these main points:
✄ matching the sleeve seam with the side seam of the dress;
✄ matching the notches;
✄ matching the sleeve center mark with the shoulder seam;
✄ finally, inserting a pin at the beginning and at the end of the gathering threads, where the mark are.

Now just start pulling the gathering threads as much as you need to and pin the gathers down.
You'll notice that there are more gathers towards the back, and that is normal (the back of you shoulder need more ease for movement).

If you're a beginner, I would highly recommend that you baste your sleeve at this point. Sleeves are quite tricky to sew, and you really don't want to rip your seam and having to do it again, trust me. 

To the sewing machine, stitch the sleeve, easing the gathers carefully under the presser foot. I would recommend starting to sew at the side seam, not at the gathers.

Turn the sleeve to the right side, and if everything looks fine, remove your gathering threads, finish the seam allowance and you're ready to hem your sleeves and the skirt.
Oh, and pat yourself on the back, because we're almost done!
Remember to pass by the Flickr group to show everyone your progress!

1 comment:

  1. what a beautiful fabric print you have there. thank's for this technique, really helpful for me. :-)